Stage 1 · 10–15 minutes
Scalp and hair assessment
Scalp checked for dermatitis, flaking, folliculitis, scratches or recent chemical processing. Porosity and elasticity assessed, and your full chemical history recorded — relaxing, rebonding, bleaching, henna, or a previous smoothing service still sitting on the mid-lengths.
Safeguard: an inflamed or broken scalp means the appointment is postponed, not worked around.
Stage 2 · 20–40 minutes
Strand test
A hidden section is processed exactly as the full head would be — product, timing, temperature, passes — and then assessed for elasticity, colour shift and breakage. On bleached, highlighted, relaxed or previously smoothed hair this is the single most useful twenty minutes of the whole appointment.
Safeguard: the test has to be allowed to fail. A strand test whose only possible answer is “proceed” is theatre.
Stage 3 · 15–20 minutes
Clarifying wash
Usually two or three washes with a clarifying shampoo to strip silicone build-up, hard-water minerals and styling residue, and to lift the cuticle so the formulation deposits evenly. Skipping this is the most common cause of a patchy result that everyone blames on the product.
Safeguard: no scalp massage or nail scratching here — an abraded scalp absorbs more of whatever comes next.
Stage 4 · 10 minutes
Controlled towel dry and sectioning
Hair is brought to a defined dampness — usually around eighty per cent dry — and divided into fine sections. Too wet and the product dilutes unevenly; too dry and it will not distribute.
Safeguard: fine sections, not thick ones. Thick sectioning is how the middle of the head ends up untreated.
Stage 5 · 30–50 minutes
Application, kept off the scalp
The formulation is applied section by section, starting a short distance from the roots, and combed through for even coverage. Product on the scalp achieves nothing cosmetically and increases both irritation and absorption.
Safeguard: gloves for the stylist, a clear margin at the roots, and a window open before the first section is coated.
Stage 6 · 20–60 minutes
Processing
The product is left to act for the period the manufacturer specifies. Longer is not stronger; it is simply longer exposure with no additional benefit.
Safeguard: if your eyes sting, your throat tightens or you start coughing, say so immediately and step out of the room.
Stage 7 · 30–70 minutes
Blow dry and thermal sealing
The hair is dried completely, then passed through a flat iron in thin sections at a controlled temperature — typically lower for fine, coloured or damaged hair and higher for coarse, resistant hair. This stage produces the result and carries most of the risk.
Safeguard: ask what temperature is being used and why. “Maximum, for everyone” is not a protocol.
Stage 8 · 15–30 minutes
Rinse, finish and written aftercare
Depending on the system, the hair is rinsed at the chair or after a waiting period at home — older systems asked for 48 to 72 hours, many modern ones do not. You should leave with that instruction in writing, along with the name of the product used.
Safeguard: ask for the product name and the rinse timing on paper. A salon that will not write it down is telling you something.
Total appointment: typically 2–4 hours. Long, dense or coarse hair runs longer — and a rushed sealing stage is where results are lost.